Selecting A Kayak

Factors That Affect Performance and Handling

Length - Generally, the longer the boat, the faster it will travel through the water. However, the longer the boat, the less maneuverable it will be.

Beam - The wider the boat, the more stable it will be. However, the wider the boat the slower it will be, and require more effort to paddle.

Rocker - This is the amount of curvature that you can see if you view the bottom of the boat from the side, like the rail of a rocking chair. The more rocker means better turning ability. However, the more rocker the boat has, the less straight line tracking ability it has.

Stability - There are two types of stability on a kayak: Primary and Secondary. Primary stability is described by how the stable the boat feels when its hull is flat to the water. Secondary stability describes how the boat feels on, or towards, its edge. People often refer to secondary stability as “tippy-ness”. While primary stability is directly related to hull (or beam) width, secondary stability is dictated by the type of chine (see below) a boat has.

Chine - Bottom shape contributes to boat performance in different conditions. The chines of a boat are the sides of the boat where the transition from the side of the boat to the hull or bottom of the boat occurs. There are two primary types of chines (with many variations):

>Hard Chines - boats with hard chines tend to move quickly from their primary stability to their secondary stability. Hard chined boats are said to “lock into their edge”.

>Soft Chines - boats with soft chines tend to move slower to their secondary stability as the transition from the side of the boat to the hull is more rounded.

Skeg or Rudder - The principle mechanical difference between a rudder and a skeg is that the skeg goes up and down (but not side to side), while the rudder goes up and down, AND side to side. Skegs are a great way to improve boat handling in windy conditions, but they will not give you the control that rudders will. Skegs have less risk of collision damage because they are under the kayak, but you will still need to exercise caution and remember to raise them when landing or backing up in shallow water. Caution must be taken with keeping the skeg tunnel clean, to prevent the skeg from getting bound up. Also, keep an eye on the lift line, as they can wear out and can break. Skegs are generally found more often on boats with more rocker to aid in tracking. They can be raised and lowered as needed.

Rudders tend to give you more directional control, they can also be raised and lowered as needed. As a general rule, you should consider a rudder if you are paddling in windy conditions, plan on covering large distances, or are maneuvering in tight conditions, like a narrow winding creek or mangrove tunnel. If you find you are paddling more on one side than the other, it’s time to put the rudder down. One mechanical issue with rudders is that steering cables can break or come off their sheaves. Also, the lift and lowering lines can break.

If you are touring in windy areas, then a rudder or skeg can be a big help. Kayaks under 14 feet do not typically need a rudder or skeg, since they are already maneuverable on their own.

Weight and Construction – Weight not only affects the handling of your boat, but also affects your ability to load and unload your craft to and from your vehicle. As loading and unloading becomes more difficult, you will tend to use your boat less and less.

>Inflatables - The reality is that PVC inflatable kayaks are a great choice for casual paddlers and certain types of kayaking. While they might not perform as well in certain conditions as others, and are much less durable, they are a much lighter, and more affordable option for beginners to experience the wonders of paddling.

>Wood – Most wooden boats you’ll see are kit boats ordered from companies that supply all or most of the materials, usually cut to shape. They may be of plywood skins or strip plank, or a mix of the two. Woods most often used are cedar or okoume marine plywood, but there are many other varieties. These boats are usually coated with a thin layer of fiberglass. They tend to be very light weight, and easy to handle. Care must be taken around sharp rocks and oyster bars.
>Plastics - Boats made of polyethylene plastic or other “soft” plastics are manufactured by roto-molding. They are abundant, least expensive, most durable and most impact resistant of kayak construction materials. Unfortunately, they are usually the heaviest.

>Thermoformed Plastics - Boats made of ABS plastic or other “hard” plastics are lighter, a little more expensive, fairly durable and impact resistant. There are several manufacturers that specialize in this type of construction.

>Folding Plastic - These boats are often called “origami boats” as they fold up often to suitcase size. These are great to get out on the water as they are light and transportable but, they lack flotation and have no sealed bulkheads (see “bulkheads”below) and cannot be re-entered if one has an out of boat experience unless fitted with flotation bags.
>Composites - This includes fiberglass, Kevlar boats, and carbon fiber. These materials make the boats stiffer, much lighter and cost considerably more than plastic boats. These materials are used for higher end touring and expedition boats.
>Other - Less common materials include skin/plastic stretched over a wood or aluminum frames and modular kayaks.